July 2021 | Lab Grown Magazine

July 2021 | The Lab Grown Diamond Resource Book 20 To advertise call (888) 832-1109 | July 2021 21 If It Bleeds, It Leads From the 1940s to the 1990s, the phrase “If it bleeds, it leads” was commonly used by national broadcast news executives and was the mantra for the next day’s printed headlines. While the phrase is frowned upon today, the meaning is still deployed daily and by all forms of media. This is the reason that every newscast starts with a story about a horrific fire, death or looming destruction. And, without fail, that same newscast ends with the puppy dog that saved a boy’s life. The “bad news first” formula works—start with fear or despair and close with rainbows. Living in the days of “fake news,” one might think that we’re conditioned to take any incoming news with a grain of salt. But when we’re bombard- ed by dozens of headlines from respectable news agencies such as: “Jeweler Pandora Takes Ethical Stand Against Mined Diamonds” [ Bloomberg , May 4, 2021], it’s understandable that the takeaway may be scandalous. These types of click-bait headlines (and typically the stories that follow them) are not incorrect ; they’re just incomplete . When you offer only about 1% of the story, the audience can only react to that tiny bit of information. Here’s the Other 99% The bottom line: Pandora didn’t divorce natural diamonds. You can’t divorce what you’re not mar- ried to. In 2020, Pandora sold 85 million pieces of jewelry. Of all those designs, 99% were all metal or set with manufactured stones. Not lab-grown diamonds, but rather white and colored man-made stones and cubic zirconia. And, of the less than 1% of natural diamond product, it appears that this boils down to as little as a single active natural dia- mond SKU. It’s not really very hard to discontinue just one SKU. This begs the question... Was Pandora really in the diamond business to begin with? Over a year ago, an in-house researcher pointed out that the environmental cost of manufactured gems is a tiny fraction that of a mined diamond. Surely, that sta- tistic brought grins to the boardroom, but not as much as increasing the perceived value of a new Pandora line offered in diamonds—lab-grown, of course. And, this while moving towards a less carbon-based process with greater margins and one heck of an eco-friendly public relations and adver- tising campaign—a certified green campaign stra- tegically formatted to be evergreen . Image: LuxeLicensing.com Pandora shows its true colors in its 99% well-cut man-made stones. The brand plans on replacing manufactured gems with colored LGDs, at least in the under 2-carat category for now. (Image: Pandora’s self-published Sustainability Report 2021) Greener Grown Gems While any LGD brand may have the best intentions and believe its product is good for the environment, beware of promoting such without hard evidence denoting exactly how your LGD process is as close to a zero-carbon footprint as possible. You may consider working your way up to a Carbon Neutral stamp of approval. If you’re growing, cutting, setting or selling LGDs and promoting grown stones through any medium and not heeding the FTC Jewelry Guide- lines for proper wording, get ready for a warning, fine or lawsuit from the Feds. Those thinking they’re too small to be in harm’s way should be glad to be reading this right now. While this topic will be discussed in a future issue of Lab-Grown Magazine, please know that the Natural Diamond Council (NDC), backed by the largest mining groups, their attorneys, and some powerful friends on the Hill, are actively investigating potential incorrect or misleading LDG promotional, sales and advertising claims. The tug-of-war of words between mined and lab-grown is turning into a knife fight. And, two words will work themselves into your vernacular as well as the media’s headlines and soon into con- sumer’s buying minds: Carbon Neutral. What is Carbon Neutral andWhy Is It Important? Defining carbon neutral is easier to define than eco- friendly, and the two do not mean the same thing. Eco-friendly is a broad term—so broad that it’s vague. Many things fall under this umbrella, and many may not have a significant impact on what is good for Earth and the environment. To further clarify, carbon neutral (CN) is not zero carbon (also known as carbon-negative or zero-impact diamonds ). But CarbonNeutral.com (a for-profit company offering carbon emissions evaluations, protocol and certification to companies hiring them) may disagree. They would still be wrong, since their directive is to work with companies that aim for a zero-carbon footprint. Pass their protocol with the right payments and you’re on the way to gaining what may become the globally recognized “anti-car- bon” corporate and brand-centric stamp of approval. Gaining a Carbon Neutral certificate is complicat- ed, involves paid credits and isn’t the only game in town. There are also The Climate Group (which has ties to Carbon Neutral) and the World Green Busi- ness Council’s (WGBC) Net Zero Carbon Build- ings initiative, among others. Pandora hasn’t committed to be fully carbon neu- tral (including using recycled gold and silver) until 2025. Yet, according to Johan Melchior, the brand’s Director of External Relations, “Recognizing the need for urgent action, Pandora will source 100% renewable electricity at its two crafting facilities in Thailand and, by 2025, Pandora will be carbon neu- tral in its own operations. This includes emissions from Pandora’s crafting facilities, owned and oper- ated stores, distribution sites and offices.” A Pandora manager unlocks the entrance doors to its store in the Galleria Dallas mall, Dallas Texas, ready for a new day in sales. (Photo: LMOtero for AP Photo) The official mark of “Carbon Neutral,” an organization tied to more than eco-minded, elite-level government and non-profit groups. They are world-class investors, in lockstep with Pandora, in some ways guiding the way to greener pastures of every type. Like Pandora, a company don’t have to have a zero-carbon footprint just yet to gain this seal. It must, however, prove that it has the wherewithal to do so in a realistic deadline. (Logo art: National Capital Partners) A Pandora Brilliance LGD solitaire pendant set in 14K gold falls in the sweet spot of $250-$350 retail, and will soon come stateside. Waiting will be young, ambitious, self- purchasing individuals and all other humans on the gift giving side. (Photo: Pandora)