January 2021 | Lab Grown Magazine

January 2021 | The Lab Grown Diamond Resource Book 26 To advertise call (888) 832-1109 | January 2021 27 iaries in Germany and Austria; and Sharrie Woodring, senior gemologist at GCAL and co-author of the 2004 edition of this book with Branko Deljanin. One of the questions the book addresses is why these man-made stones are generating more attention than ever. The authors give three reasons: Manufacturers have refined the HPHT and CVD methods to produce a large supply of bigger gem-quality mate- rial at a reasonable cost; more near-colorless, blue, and pink laboratory-grown diamonds are now available in addition to yellow, thanks to better growth conditions; pro- ducers and U.S. designers are creating more jewelry with LGDs, and more retailers are carrying LGDs, thus initiating increased de- mand among consumers who are savvy about spending. Even though the book is quite technical in many aspects, most explanations are easy to understand and offer a good overview of the lab-grown sector. Part I provides a back- ground on the industry, starting with the history of LGDs, which were first created in 1954 for industrial production, followed in the 1970s for gem-quality stones. It also explains the types of diamonds, as well as the evolution of the technologies involved in the HPHT and CVD processes and the chang- ing colors of lab-grown stones. Important, too, is the information provided on the FTC guidelines regarding nomen- clature of lab-grown diamonds. Essentially, the FTC acknowledges that both mined and LGDs are diamonds with the difference being the source and that each be clearly labeled. Designed for transparency and to protect consumers, the new guidelines inter- estingly omit the word natural from the defi- nition of a diamond. Part II offers a 2020 overview of diamond growth and production, along with the ma- jor producers around the world. The authors also describe the challenges for new compa- nies considering getting into CVD-growing, including controlling intellectual property, training operators, budgets, start-up costs and more. One interesting section goes into detail about LGDs known as Memorial Diamonds. "For a comparatively small but determined clientele, Memorial Diamonds provide in- trinsic and sentimental value that infinitely surpasses its material value," write the au- thors, who state that these gems were first grown in 2003 using the HPHT method, and since are marketed worldwide either in the funeral sector with carbon extracted from the cremation remains, or from hair of the deceased person, or marketed as a special item in the context of celebrations such as weddings where the carbon source is hair of a living person. They caution, however, that the overall process is not so simple and that Diamond phase diagram showing the range for HPHT and CVD processes. Pink fluorescence of yellow and colorless LGDs and blue fluorescence of natural diamonds by Dusan Simic, page 166. >> prospective buyers of Memorial Diamonds should deal only with reputable companies. Part III (64 pages, 1/3 of the book) is de- voted to the identification of lab-grown dia- monds, including descriptions and discus- Commercially available MP CVD-grower, page 62. Fluorescence and phosphorescence of colorless natural, treated and lab-grown diamonds by Branko Deljanin, page 148. Pattern under cross-polar- ized filters of natural and lab- grown diamonds, page 134. sions of standard and advanced gemological equipment, as well as updates on fluorescence of both mined and LGDs. The last section of the book, Part IV, goes into detail on certification and tracking. It also includes a brief description of the unique USPTO patent obtained in 2018 by Dusan Simic ─ "Synthetic Diamond Labeling and Identification System and Method" ─ which is the first comprehensive solution to create simple intrinsic differences between natural and lab-grown diamonds used in the jewelry industry. The important issue of grading lab-grown diamonds is also discussed in this section. The book features a selection of beautiful jewelry made with LGDs in various colors by designers who are adopting these gems as an important part of their collections, especially in the demi-fine category of fashion jewels. An impressive list of references rounds out the book, which would be an important addi- tion to any gem and jewelry library. ■ NATURAL DIAMOND HPHT-GROWN DIAMOND CVD-GROWN DIAMOND